How to Use a Sewing Machine: Your First Stitch, Reverse and Backstitch

28 October 2026 (Last Modified: 11 November 2026)

Sew and Fix Team

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Take two small scraps of fabric. On the first, sew a short seam and simply cut the threads at the end. On the second, sew the same seam but this time, hold the reverse lever for a few stitches at the start and finish. Now, gently pull the thread ends on both samples. The first seam will likely unravel easily; the second should hold firm. This simple test shows why backstitching is the first securing technique every sewer should master.

You’re sitting at the machine with the needle threaded, the bobbin in place, and the fabric lined up. You press the pedal. The needle drops. The thread loops and tangles underneath into a birds’ nest, the fabric judders forward and stops. More often than not, the answer is simple: the presser foot is still up.

This is a common beginner mistake, yet many tutorials treat the presser foot position as assumed knowledge. This article fixes that, showing you how to get your first proper stitch locked and secure once the machine is feeding correctly.

Getting Ready to Sew

The moment before a seam starts is when many problems begin, and few of them are threading faults.

On many machines, raising the presser foot releases the upper-thread tension. The top thread passes through the discs without being gripped properly. You press the pedal, and the thread just floats—it can’t be controlled or balanced against the bobbin thread, so it can’t form a proper stitch. Instead, loops of thread tangle on the underside of the fabric. The presser foot also helps hold the fabric against the feed dogs. Without it down, the fabric may not feed smoothly or may stutter and jam.

Lowering the presser foot engages the tension system and locks the fabric in place. The stitch forms correctly and the fabric moves forward. One movement of the foot lever, and the problem often disappears.

The fix is straightforward: before you start sewing, lower the presser foot.

Make two other quick checks. Ensure the needle is fully inserted—pushed right up into the needle clamp and tightened firmly. A partially inserted needle sits off-centre, which can skip stitches. Also, rethread the top thread with the presser foot up, as this opens the tension discs fully for the thread to seat correctly.

If your thread is bunching underneath
When thread bunches into a tangled nest under the fabric, the first thing to check isn’t the bobbin or tension dial. It’s the presser foot. With the foot up, the top thread often has no tension. Lower the foot, and the problem usually resolves immediately.

Use the reverse lever gently. Press it just enough to engage the mechanism and hold it while you sew backwards. Avoid forcing it.

If you’ve lowered the foot, rethreaded properly, and fitted a fresh needle but the fabric still won’t feed, clean the lint from around the feed dogs and bobbin area. For a full guide on threading, see our post on threading your sewing machine .

Securing Your Seam with Backstitching

Once the machine is sewing smoothly, secure the seam so it doesn’t unravel. Use the reverse lever to sew backwards over the first few stitches at the start, and again at the end.

📺 Watch: How To Lock Seam/Stitch, No Reverse

The reverse lever changes the feed dog direction. Instead of pulling the fabric forward, the dogs pull it backward, so the needle sews over the same line of stitching. Each reverse stitch overlaps the previous one, creating a lock. A few reverse stitches help secure the thread ends.

Here’s the sequence: start your seam normally, sew forward about a centimetre, then hold the reverse lever and sew back over those stitches. Release the lever, and sew the rest of the seam. At the end, stop with the needle down, raise the presser foot, hold the reverse lever and sew backwards for a short section (many manuals recommend roughly 1 cm), release, then continue forward off the fabric edge.

A common mistake is not reversing far enough at the end. Use the number of reverse stitches recommended by your machine’s manual; a short section is usually sufficient. For a seam under stress, a slightly longer backstitch is wiser.

Avoid reversing too far at the start. Don’t sew backwards past where your seam begins, as the knot of stitches at the very edge can catch in the machine.

The reverse lever is the standard way to secure a seam. If stitches still look wrong after sorting the foot position, see our guide to sewing machine tension .

Automatic Locking Stitches

Some computerised machines have an auto-lock or locking-stitch function. On these models, a button sews a short sequence of stitches to lock the seam start and end automatically.

It’s a useful feature if your machine has it. The locking happens consistently, removing the variable of how long you held the lever. For production sewing or long seams with stops and starts, it saves mental effort.

The trade-off is that it only works on machines with the function, and it only secures the seam—it doesn’t replace good construction. A locked seam sewn with the wrong needle is still a poor seam.

Check your manual. The exact sequence varies by model. If your machine doesn’t have this, the reverse lever method works well with a little practice.

Securing Seams by Hand

Sometimes machine backstitching isn’t possible or ideal—perhaps the machine lacks a reverse function, or you need to secure a seam in a tight corner.

Hand backstitching is a strong hand-sewing stitch for these situations.

Bring your needle up through the fabric, then insert it a short distance behind where the thread emerges—about 5mm for standard work. Before pulling the needle through, bring it back up a similar distance ahead. Each new stitch travels backwards to meet the end of the previous one, so every stitch is anchored at two points.

On the right side, it looks similar to machine stitching. On the wrong side, the stitches overlap rather than resembling a running stitch. The continuous thread path provides good strength.

Hand stitching can be useful where machine stitching would add unwanted bulk, depending on the fabric and thread. It distributes the thread more evenly than a dense knot of machine reverse stitches.

It takes practice to get the stitch length consistent. Mark a short seam section and work slowly.

Using a Knot to Secure Threads

The simplest option to secure a seam is to sew off the fabric, leave a long thread tail, and knot it by hand. This works when machine or hand backstitching isn’t practical.

Sew forward off the edge, leaving about 10–15cm of thread. Thread the loose end through a hand needle (paid link)See on Amazon, bring it to the wrong side, and knot the thread end by passing it through the loop of the last machine stitch. Pull it firm but not tight enough to pucker. A second pass through a neighbouring loop adds security. Trim the ends.

This method avoids bulk from reverse stitches, making it a choice for sheer fabrics. It’s also a fallback for old machines without reverse.

The limitation is that it’s an extra step you must remember, so it’s easy to skip when hurried.

Now you know how to fix common first-stitch issues—download the free Sew and Fix Fault-Finding Checklist to keep the steps handy.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why is my sewing machine making a clicking noise?

Clicking can have several causes, including a damaged or incorrectly fitted needle. Switch off the machine and check that the needle is pushed fully up into the clamp and tightened. Remove the needle plate and clean around the feed dogs and bobbin area. If the noise continues, consult the manual or a technician.

Can I use WD-40 to oil my sewing machine?

Do not use WD-40 unless your machine’s manufacturer specifically permits it. It is not a suitable lubricant for sewing machines. Use only sewing machine oil, a light mineral oil designed for precision mechanisms. Hemline Sewing Machine Oil (paid link) is widely available. Your manual will indicate if and where to apply oil; many modern machines are sealed and don’t need user oiling.

Buy Hemline Sewing Machine Oil on Amazon → (paid link)

How often should I change my sewing machine needle?

At the start of every new project. A dull or damaged needle can contribute to skipped stitches and fabric damage. A blunt or bent needle won’t pierce fabric cleanly; it can deflect, causing skipped stitches or snags. Keep a pack of the correct needle type for your project and change it before starting new work.

Next Steps and Machine Care

The initial checks are simple and mostly free: lower the presser foot before starting, rethread with the foot up, fit a fresh needle, and use the reverse lever gently. These steps can resolve many common first-stitch problems.

📺 Watch: How to Operate a Brother XM2701 Sewing Machine

If you’ve worked through these checks and the machine still misbehaves—fabric won’t feed, tension looks wrong after rethreading, or the needle keeps snapping—the machine may need professional attention. A service is often worthwhile before deciding a machine is beyond repair.

To keep the full checking sequence handy, download the free Sew and Fix Fault-Finding Checklist . It lists the checks in order—threading, needle, bobbin, lint, then tension—on a single page to pin by your machine.

For securing seams, remember that most stitches use backstitching, but bartack stitches replace it with a dense zigzag pattern for maximum strength on stress points like pocket corners. Once you’re confident with backstitching, the next skill to master is threading your machine correctly .

For a complete overview, see our How to Thread a Sewing Machine: Top-Loading vs Front-Loading Bobbins .

Sources & Further Reading

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Note: General guidance only, verify details with a qualified professional or official source.